We have been in Lisbon for about a week and a half now. But between Paris and Lisbon we had the best week skiing with old friends and new in Chamonix. For context, Chamonix is here:

Our friend Dr. CJ (CJ, this is a test of whether you read the blog) went to Chamonix a few years ago to run some crazy trail race in the Alps, and has never stopped telling us about how wonderful it is. Our friend Helen has also been and said we could easily spend a month there. So we went to Chamonix with CJ and friends, and I’d like to go back now to finish out that month.

I think it’s fair to refer to the entire Valley as “Chamonix”, but there is a main town of Chamonix, and a bunch of ski resorts up and down the valley. Mont Blanc and Aiguille du Midi stare back at you every time you look up, and you are surrounded by mountains.

If you are into a diet of cheese, then the Savoie region of France is the place for you! Melted cheese dishes of many varieties are their specialty. My favorite cheesy treats included: Raclette – actually a Swiss dish, but who cares. It’s a wedge of cheese propped up next to a little fire, which melts the cheese, then when it is sufficiently melty and delicious you slice off the melty part and eat it. Repeat. Tartiflette – potatoes and bacon covered in cheese. Croute – bread soaked in wine covered in cheese.

We got really lucky with the weather. It snowed halfway through our trip, so we had spring skiing for a few days, then fresh powder. Before and after views from our apartment.

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I’m betting all skiing in the Alps is awesome, but we really loved Chamonix. It was easy to get to the mountains on the ski shuttle, there are a ton a resorts, the food on the mountains is delicious and different on every mountain, ski lessons are cheap, the views are breathtaking, everyone is in a great mood, and backcountry skiing and mountaineering are really popular. I have no plans to participate in those activities, but am super impressed by those who do and like breathing the same air. And there are glaciers (which is also kind of depressing because they are melting pretty dramatically, and you can see the melt in action).

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Ski lunches include views and cheese.

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The below photos are from our terrifying trip up Aiguille du Midi. Terrifying because you take two gondolas up to about 12,600 feet. The second gondola is not supported by anything but the cable, holds like 60 people plus a heavy gondola, and travels vertically at the end, then it stops for what I’m sure was an eternity, the wind blows you around and you bounce off the side of the mountain a little. Then you look straight down, and wonder if anyone has died doing this today. On the left, we are standing above the “void”, and I’m not happy about it. On the right, CJ showing us her off-piste ski route down to the valley floor. Which is nuts, btw. Once I get comfortable with 3-ft jumps, I’ll try it.

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One of the things I’m taking home is Vin Chaud (mulled wine). We ordered it at every lunch on the mountain, and it was a little different each time. I’ve been researching recipes, and will experiment all next winter to perfect it, but here is the general idea:

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Feel really grateful we had this week in Chamonix. We’ll remember it for a long time, and am betting we’ll be back.

If you are thinking of a Chamonix trip, read this fabulous NYT article, 36 Hours in Chamonix.